Road trip

Howdy all

I'm in Luxor now (home of The Valley of the Kings, The Valley of the Queens and the Karnak Temples), and having a great time. There is so much to see here and the variety of street life is amazing. Many people here are smarmy though, only superficially as friendly as those from Assiut. And it's especially bad for the girls in our group (most of us from the Summer School are here, together with some of the Egyptian students). The Pharaonic structures here really are unbelievable though. We've been to Aswan and Abu Simbel so far, and the scale of the monuments is just so huge, and you can't help but be amazed at the vision, planning and determination of the rulers. If you ever get the chance, come and visit!

Yesterday we went to a typical Egyptian wedding and it was amazing. Here you don't have to be invited to attend a wedding party (you more or less invite yourself), but it felt very awkward at first, especially as we had just come from a day of sightseeing and were all in sweaty T-shirts and shorts. We were made to feel really welcome thought, and soon were having a great time. Most Egyptian cultures and traditions are strongly influenced by the state's conservative Islamic/Middle Eastern heritage, but the party was pure African. There was a thumping drum beat and, accompanied by ululations most of the guests were soon on their feet. Then a dancing horse joined in the fun, and a stick dance was performed. We all had a great time.

I had a very scary moment the other day - I nearly drowned. We were swimming in the Nile (I know I know, it's probably the dumbest thing you can do in Egypt with all the infectious diseases, but it was in a "safe spot"), when suddenly I and two friends got pulled away by a very strong current. I got terrible leg cramps and was getting further and further from the shore, when fortunately a boat happened to pass by and I got rescued. It was the most petrified I've been for a long time.

Off to the Luxor Temple now, for a sound and light show, so I'll end here.

Take care,
Mus

P.P.S. Oh yeah, the promised article on haggling and politics in Egypt. I Just found this on a website [edit: broken link] by Chris and Alice Hoddapp, and though it's a bit dated, I've changed a few things and it's still pretty accurate. Enjoy.

“Everywhere you go in the major cities there will be someone invading your treasured personal space, trying to sell you a three dollar t-shirt for $20 that you'll eventually buy three of for a dollar. The joy is in the haggle. They live for it. Ask the price, and no matter what it is, roll your eyes. Curse. Invoke God's wrath on them. Laugh like Snidely Whiplash. Look like he just peed on your shoe, spit on the ground, and walk away contemptuously harrumph-ing. As you walk, the price will plummet. Remember, he who talks first is dead (it's just like a used car lot). Don't ask about the size - it's your size! Finally, offer 1/10th of his last offer, wait for his curse, laugh, spit and harrumph, and then walk away. Finally it will get down to what you want to pay. All part of the game.

Occasionally you'll come across someone wanting to have a political discussion with you. I assure you, they know more about US politics than most Americans bother to find out, and you will be quickly set upon by a group of men wanting to shout their opinions all over your $3 tee shirt. In Luxor, two sleepy teenagers started to goad us into a "How did you feel about Sadat?" discussion, slyly smiling and pointing out that he was killed by men from Upper Egypt..."Men like us, heh, heh, heh..." Only you know how you can handle such situations. Everyone in the Middle East loves a good argument-it reminds them of haggling-and this is why things get out of hand and the shooting starts. If you want to flex your political science muscles, jump right in, have it out, then offer to buy your opponents tea or a smoke. It is a game with them, and they love talking to Americans. Just remember, you'll be put in the position of defending Dubya, Clinton, Coca-Cola and the CIA. But once you start, you've got to follow through because you'll attract a crowd, and they'll follow you all the way to your boat trying to win their point. They aren't as good natured about it as, say, the Turks, and the very religious Muslims would just as soon you go home, thank you. If you're squeamish about all of this, claim ignorance, grin like an idiot and move on.”